Upon arrival in the Simpson Harbour, we are made very aware that there is a lot of World War II history in this part of New Guinea, and it's hard to imagine what it would have been like back then, as the view of this tropical island today is so calm and peaceful, even with an active volcano puffing away in the distance.
The Japanese overwhelmed the small Australian garrison in January, 1942, and quickly established Rabaul as their most powerful base in the south-west Pacific. At its peak strength, this included 5 airfields, seaplane and submarine base, huge naval anchorage and support facilities, and numbered almost 200,000 personnel. Fortunately our allies had other ideas and to escape air assault, the Japanese began moving underground – honeycombing the hills around Rabaul with hundreds of kms. of tunnels, including hospitals, repair facilities and barracks……
We did a ship's tour this morning but not in the big, beautifully air-conditioned buses that we have become very used to, BUT in very small vans, with little wheels, and windows for air!! It was stinking hot, very very bumpy and we were eating grey volcanic dust!!! Our first stop though was at a Japanese Barge Tunnel which was built to hide their barges from allied attacks and which still has 3 rusting hulks inside – we couldn't get very far in though, probably about 50mts… the stories they could tell! Just outside were the most beautiful local Melanesian people selling their wares, with babies in arms and children of all ages – the most conspicuous feeling we got from them was that they were so very happy, polite and were not pushy at all. There is a photo below of some of the lovely ladies of Rabaul – I asked whether I could take a photo and all gathered around, I took a couple and a little bit of video, said thanks and started walking away – WELL they almost pounced on me and demanded $5, and yes, they got it!!!!
Back in the mini bus and it was off to the Kokopo War and Cultural Museum which displays an impressive collection of Japanese war relics and vehicles and then it was back in the bus again, for more bouncing and gagging for fresh air, to the Bita Paka War Cemetery. This memorial is dedicated to over 1,000 graves and honours the allied soldiers who lost their lives during World War II. It is beautifully laid out and the grounds are immaculate, thanks to the Australian Government.
It was a wonderful tour this morning, too short as always, but we were very glad to return and shower. After lunch, we meandered around the few streets close to the port - some light industrial, supermarkets and markets, and watched the locals do their thing. As mentioned above, these people are just so nice and just about everyone said 'hello' and just walked on. The children are starting to get a bit cheeky, asking for a dollar, but they are not persistant. I bought a lovely MuMu and some nice material and Colin bought beer!! There was a tour to the Volcanological Observatory but we'll have to do that next time…..
A very long time ago, Mother Nature also had a hand in Rabaul's violent history, as a cataclysmic explosion some 1,400 years ago formed a huge caldera into which the Pacific Ocean poured forming this Simpson Harbour….. and not that long ago, in 1994 there was an eruption which buried Rabaul under 2 metres of ash. One of the 5 volcanoes, Tavurvur, continues to huff and puff, not too far off in the distance.
Sailaway was at 6pm and getting dark, but a lovely evening to cruise out of the harbour, heading for Brisbane on Saturday. After another delightful dinner, we went to the Marriage Match Gameshow, which was just as silly as ever – but a bit of fun, none the less.
Thanks for a great blog - love your photos - welcome back home!!! xxxx R and A
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